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English Topography Part III : Derbyshire - Dorsetshire
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On this page:
Dovedale | Dronfield | Duffield
| Eckington | Hardwicke Hall |
Hault Hucknall | Kedleston
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36 Derbyshire. |
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Dovedale
[1794, Part I., p. 297.]
If you think the enclosed sketches of a remarkable perforated
rock in Dovedale will be acceptable to your readers, they
are very much at your service. Fig. I is a view of the entrance
of a cave called Reynard's Hall, as seen through the arch.
Fig. 2 is a view of the arch from the inside of the cave;
at about twelve yards from
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Dovedale 37 |
this is another
cave, called Reynard's Kitchen. See the plan of these caves
at Figs. 3 and 4.
The many Druidical remains that are to be met with in the Peak
afford reason to suppose that this sequestered and romantic
valley would not escape the notice of the Druids; the projecting
and high-pointed rocks, the caves, the once venerable oaks,
were well suited for the performance of their solemn rites.
The approach to the cave, through the arch, which appears partly
to be formed by art, has a striking effect, and I think it is
not improbable that these caves might have been the habitations
of the principal Druids of that district; and if the tops of
these cliffs were to be closely examined, I do not doubt but
that sufficient Druidical remains would be discovered to confirm
my opinion.
Yours, etc., H. R.
[1794, Part II., p. 807)
The engraving (Plate II. ) is a view near the entrance of
Dovedale, from Ashbourne, in Derbyshire. The ground begins
to rise at the above place. Thorpe-cloud and its majestic
brethren are conspicuous for many miles round, but are seen
to most advantage from the Wirksworth road to Ashbourne. The
singular shape of the Cloud, detached from all the surrounding
hills, aided by the barrenness of the whole, composes rather
a gloomy landscape. It is, perhaps, rather worthy of remark
why Nature has thus, in many spots, denied its bounty, and
separated, almost by a line, luxuriant verdure from bleak
desolation. The contrast in this neighbourhood is particularly
marked. Nothing can exceed the richness of the grounds round
Ashbourne. Every eminence produces variety. Yet I cannot help
thinking much of the beauty of the place is lost, in some
instances, by the wretched taste of whitening churches and
houses for objects. ... I am not quite certain whether I am
right in the orthography of Thorpe-cloud, as I write it merely
from the remembrance of the words as they were pronounced;
if I am not, some of your correspondents will oblige me by
setting the matter right, and giving the origin of the name.
The hill has much the appearance of a volcano-a perfect cone,
separated from the chain by the Dove, which makes an elbow
at the base of it. A very good road has been carried for some
distance up the dale by a gentleman whose name has slipped
my memory. Very few places that I have seen present so dreary
an aspect as the commencement of Dovedale. This, perhaps,
was heightened by my being alone; for my only visit to this
place was in the year 1790, when totally unacquainted with
the country and its inhabitants. To my shame I have frequently
been at Ashbourne since, but never at Dovedale. It was, unfortunately
for me, a wet uncomfortable season, and after many attempts
I reached the spot represented in the print. The very singular
shape of the cone and
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38 Derbyshire. |
| those pointed rocks
induced me to draw them; no doubt had I advanced I should have
been amply gratified by a more variegated scene. My propensity
to climb the tremendous sides of the hills was totally damped
by hearing the horrid catastrophe of the Dean, and lady ; a
false step is irrecoverable on those steeps.
J. P. MALCOLM
[1823, Part I, p. 603.]
The river Dove, so emphatically described by Cotton as "princess
of rivers," was the spot where he and his friend Walton
delighted to lie and angle for trout, and where Cotton, in
1674, erected "a small fishing-house," dedicated
to anglers. It is thus described in the notes of the "Complete
Angler," edit. 1784, p. 21 :
"It is of stone, and the room in the inside a cube of
about 15 feet; it is paved with black and white marble. In
the middle is a square black marble table, supported by two
stone feet. The room is wainscoted, with curious mouldings
up to the ceiling; in larger panels are represented in painting
some of the most pleasant of the adjacent fences, with persons
fishing; and in the smaller, various sorts of tackle and implements
used in angling. In the further corner, on the left, is a
fire-place, with a chimney; and in right, a large beaufet,
with folding-doors, whereon are the portraits of Mr. Cotton,
with a boy servant and Walton, in the dress of the time ;
underneath is a cupboard, on the door whereof are the figures
of a trout and also of a grayling, which are well pourtrayed."
But little care having been taken of this highly-distinguished
"fishing-house," I am sorry to say it has fallen
to ruin. When the well known and amiable Rev. Dr. John Evans,
of Islington, visited this house, the inscription, half filled
with moss, was almost obliterated. "I clambered"
(says Dr. Evans*) "through the window with difficulty
; but of the interior decorations, alas ! no traces were to
be found." Yet the person who accompanied him as a guide
informed him that the "little building" (as he termed
it) was in his remembrance enriched with those rural decorations
described above, and that persons were in the habit of visiting
it from a considerable distance, even from Scotland.
The scenes on the banks of the Dove are not less romantic
than that of any river in England. It rises among hills near
the points where the three counties of Stafford, Derby and
Chester meet; it has much the quality and appearance of Welsh
rivers, which flow from a mountainous origin. The beautifully
sequestered dell of Dovedale, embosomed among bold
projecting precipices, whose lofty tops are covered with trees,
is situated not far from its source. Emerging from its hollow
bed, under the pyramidal mountain of
* "Juvenile Tourist," third
edition (1810), p. 218.
See views of Dovedale in vol. lxiv., pp. 297, 807,
1073.
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Dronfield. 39 |
| Thorpe-cloud, it
receives the Manifold, which receives the Hamps. Increased by
the accession of these rivers, the Dove passes beneath a long
picturesque bridge, situated in a most romantic spot, about
a mile above the village of Ashbourne, one of the most delightful
in England, whether we regard the charms of its situation, or
the select society by which it is inhabited. From thence the
river runs along in a winding direction through a narrow valley,
agreeably diversified by a variety of elegant seats and hamlets.
Meandering round the base of the hill on which the celebrated
ruins of Tutbury Castle present themselves, it soon after falls
into the Trent. From the great declivity of its channel, the
water flows with uncommon rapidity, and in some places it dashes
precipitately over rugged rocks, shaded with foliage. In others
it is distinguished by gentle cascades.
S. T.
Dronfield.
[1795, Part I., p. 477.]
Fig. 1 in Plate III. is copied from an old brass in the church
at Dronfield, Derbyshire, on which are eight Latin lines,
in the old black letter, in memory of John Fanshawe, of Fanshawe
Gate, and Margaret, his wife, and seven of their children,
one of whom died in 1580. The arms, crests, and figures are
not disposed on the stone as they stand in the plate. I accidentally
omitted to note their relative situations when I rubbed them
off, and therefore thought it better to place them as they
are than arrange them wrong. I shall add nothing farther at
present relating to Dronfield, as I purpose, with your permission,
at a future opportunity to describe the road from Chesterfield
to Dronfield.
J. P. MALCOLM.
[1819, Part 1., p. 305.]
The neat market-town of Dronfield, in the hundred of Scarsdale,
county Derby, is pleasantly situated in a valley remarkable
for its salubrity. It is distant 6 miles north-north-west
from Chesterfield, and 155 miles from London. The number of
houses in 1811 was 271, of inhabitants 1,343. There was no
church here at the time Domesday Book was compiled, but one
was probably erected soon after the Norman Conquest, by one
of the family of Brailsford, who early possessed the advowson.
Henry de Brailsford bestowed the benefice on the neighbouring
abbey of Beauchief. It was appropriated to that monastery
in 1399, and a vicarage endowed in 1403.* Very soon after
this regulation was erected the present handsome chancel (see
Plate II.), which for beauty and grandeur is exceeded by few
parochial churches. It is remarkable that this chancel is
*A copy of the Ordination is given by
Dr. Pegge, in his "History of Beauchief Abbey."
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40 Derbyshire. |
more lofty than
the nave. All the fine tracery which once, no doubt, ornamented
the east window has been barbarously removed.
The church is a handsome Gothic structure, 132 feet long, with
a spire.
In the south aisle is an ancient monument to Sir Robert Barley,
of Dronfield Woodhouse. In the chancel are memorials of the
families of Fanshawe, Burton, Barker of Dore, Morewood of Hallowes,
Rotheram, etc.
Dr. Pegge supposed that the rectory of Dronfield was granted
to the Fanshawe family. The rectorial tithes have lately been
sold to the several landowners. The vicarage, which in 1730
was augmented by Queen Anne's bounty, is in the gift of the
Crown.
Henry Fanshawe, Esq., Remembrancer of the Exchequer, founded
a free school* here in 1579.
The classics have not been taught here for many years. The school,
which is open to boys of any parish, is conducted on Dr Bell's
system. General Fanshawe, an officer in the Russian service,
is the present patron of the school, as representative of the
founder.
J. P. M.
Duffield.
[1792, Part I, p. 13.]
Duffield is a neat little town in Derbyshire, four miles from
Derby, in the turnpike-road to Wirksworth ; the approach to
it finely diversified with Cultivation, gentle rises, and
fine prospects of the river Derwent meandering through delightful
meadows. The church is faithfully represented in the annexed
drawing (Plate II.). At this town was formerly a castle, and
near it a forest, belonging to the family of Ferrers.
The bridge, of which I also send you an exact drawing, is
some little distance from the main street of Duffield, and
near the church. It is the road from Derby to Chesterfield,
passing Higham, etc. There are three pointed arches of considerable
height. The river at this place may be about 120 feet wide,
very rapid, and, a little above shallow and stony. Here may
be said to commence that long chain of rocky hills, of which
Matlock, Dovedale, etc., make so conspicuous a part. From
the bridge the hill is composed of loose stones and sand,
and so steep and difficult of ascent that it is impossible
for horses to drag the loaded coaches which pass that way,
it is therefore common for the driver to request the passengers
to alight; and I think it must be considerably above a mile
that we walked before it became sufficiently level to take
to the coach. This road must ever remain so, as the soil will
ever subject it to
* The Orders for the government of the
School are printed in Mr. Carlisle's "Endowed Grammar
Schools."
See Camden, vol. ii., p. 306; from a communication
of Mr. Mander to the Society of Antiquaries, 1763
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Duffield. 41 |
| gullies from the
rain rushing down, Indeed, this part of the county is greatly
improved of late, by enclosing and fertilizing many of the hills,
which formerly presented nothing but stones and heath. Near
this place is Winfield manor, a fine old ruin.
Yours, etc., J. P. MALCOLM
[1792, Part I., p. 201.]
I return you the drawing (Plate I.) of Duffield bridge, near
Derby, of which an account was given in page 13. There were
at the time of the Norman Conquest a church and priest at
Duffield. The present church is dedicated to St. Alkmund,
and once belonged to the collegiate church of Our Lady, in
the Newark at Leicester. It contains little worth notice,
except an altar-tomb of Sir Roger Minors and his lady; and
when I saw the church last there was water in it to the depth
of two feet, owing to a flood which had deluged the neighbourhood.
J. P. MALCOLM.
Eckington.
[1795, Part II., p. 826.]
The village of Eckington lies a few miles to the east of Whittington,
so famed for the scene of the revolution in 1688. It is of
considerable size, and the rectory is one of the richest in
Derbyshire. The Rev. Christopher Alderson, LL.B., is the present
incumbent, to whom his successors will be much indebted for
the elegant improvements he has made at the rectory; which
vies with many of the best houses in the country for real
taste in its decorations. Mr. Alderson is very happy in disposing
pleasure-grounds, and has been, I am told, employed at Frogmore.
Some specimens that I have seen deserve much praise, particularly
at Ford House, Derbyshire. He has made as much as he could
of the confined limits at Eckington, as will be seen in some
degree by the print accompanying this (see Plate II.). Facing
the house there is a pretty piece of water, across which he
has thrown a handsome bridge, and at one end placed a rustic
temple. The church is a good old building, clean, and in repair.
It has been much improved by a handsome organ, put up by Mr.
Alderson. There are no monuments worthy the attention of an
antiquary in Eckington Church. It is in the gift of the Crown.
Yours, etc., J. P. MALCOLM.
Hardwicke Hall.
[1797, Part I., p. 280.]
Hardwicke Hall is a grand object in so many points of view,
that I have been tempted to present it to your readers (see
Plate II.).
Hardwicke was built in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and
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42 Derbyshire. |
possesses all the
features of sublimity that we attach to the fanciful and well-painted
edifices of our best romances.
It belongs to the Duke of Devonshire, and is situated in the
vicinity of Chesterfield and Mansfield.
"The state apartments, fitted up by the Countess of Shrewsbury
for the reception of the Queen of Scots, and on account of the
designed visit of Queen Elizabeth, remain in their primitive
state," with the original furniture, to this day, and deserve
to have a large and accurate account preserved of them, as a
means of conveying to the curious, in times to come, an exact
idea of the ancient style of living, and of the manners of that
peculiar age."*
There are many ancient portraits in a long and magnificent gallery
; but the house appears almost too large for our modern mode
of living.
The brasses marked Fig. 2 are those described by R. G. in vol.
lxiv., p. 15, from Chesterfield Church.
Yours, etc., J. P. M.
Hault Hucknall.
[1799, Part I, p. 449.]
As you have lately given us in your entertaining miscellany
some curious specimens of ancient churches, I have sent you
a drawing (Plate I.) of Hault Hucknall Church, in the county
of Derby, which, I think, has evident marks of its great antiquity.
The entrance appears to have been at the west end, over which,
in a semicircular compartment, are some disproportionate figures
in rude sculpture (Fig. 2), which probably refer to some passage
in Scripture. Those below, which are on a blackish stone,
were undoubted intended to represent St. Michael and the Dragon.
The position of the tower is very remarkable, being at the
east end. May not this be one of the few ancient stone churches
built by the Saxons? At least, I should imagine it was erected
soon after the Norman Conquest. There is nothing remarkable
in the inside except the monument of the famous old Hobbes.
On a black marble slab is the following epitaph:
"Condita hic sunt ossa THOMÆ
HOBBES, Malmesburiensis qui per multos annos servivit duobus
Devoniæ comitibus, patri et filio. Vir probus, et famâ
eruditionis domi forisque bene cognitus. Obiit anno Domini,
1679, ætatis suæ 91."
The living is a vicarage, in the gift of the Duke of Devonshire,
and formerly belonged to the Abbey of Croxton, in Leicestershire,
and afterwards to the Priory of Newstead. The parish includes
the hamlets of Rowthorn, Stanesby, Astwood, Arstoff, and Hardwicke.
The church is about a mile from Hardwicke Hall, where the
Duke and Duchess of Devonshire generally spend two or three
months in the autumn with great hospitality. The house is
in every respect
* Mr. King, in Archæologia,
v., 361.
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Kedleston. 43 |
| comfortable; and
the duchess has of late very judiciously placed all the family
pictures in the long gallery, which greatly adds to the respectability
of that fine old mansion.
H. R.
Kedleston.
[1793. Part I., p. 105.]
Kedleston Church (see Plate I.) is a rectory, dedicated to
All Saints. The building is more remarkable for the astonishing
load of ivy hung upon its walls than for size or beauty of
design. It is surrounded by Lord Scarsdale's noble mansion
and offices, and has been the place of sepulture for his ancestors
for many ages. A number of monuments, some ancient and decayed,
and others quite modern, adorn its mouldering walls. There
are in the pavement, near the altar, two massive pieces of
oak (circular) with rings to lift them. They excited my curiosity,
and Lord Scarsdale's servant obligingly lifted them. They
closed two Gothic circles; at the bottom of one was a head
of stone in chain-armour, in the other a female with drapery
folded round the head. There is no inscription near that may
lead to who they were, though, no doubt, some of the Curzons.
Whether it was a fancy of the designer of the tomb, or that
the pavement may have been raised, is now not to be discovered.
I have never seen anything of the kind before. Another ancient
tomb of the Curzons in this church, on which are the effigies
of the persons it was intended to commemorate, with bas-reliefs
of their children - as is common on numberless altar-tombs
- has given rise to I know not what vulgar tradition of the
lady's having had a number of children at a birth, and one
dropping somewhere and being lost. I do not contend that I
am quite correct in the particulars of this wonderful story,
though it has been repeated to me almost every time I mentioned
the church when in Derbyshire. The two modern monuments, I
think, were designed by Mr. Adams, the architect. They are
large, of statuary marble, and beautifully sculptured. Those
are near the altar: The old tombs are in a kind of chapel,
formed of .the south transept of the cross, in which shape
the church is built.
Yours, etc., J. P. MALCOLM
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