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magnificent rampart, which is seen obliquely, and brings the promontory
into the view.
Cliff House, the residence of Richard Leacroft, Esq. is situated on
the summit of the hill opposite to the High Tor, but is a very unpicturesque
object. This immense ridge of diversified cliffs, declines towards
the boat house, where a third ridge commences, which suddenly turns
to the eastward : at the end of it is the village of Matlock. The
church is in a most romantic situation upon the rock ; from this circumstance
these are called the Church Rocks. They are richly fringed
with foliage, and exhibit a curious curvilinear stratification. From
this turn the view is very picturesque : the river accompanies the
rocks half way towards the village, and then suddenly leaves them
; a part of the village also comes in weIl. Looking in a southern
direction we have another very rich scene, well adapted for the pencil.
Here ends this charming dale, where they who are feelingly alive to
the sweet influence of lovely scenery will most assuredly be gratified,
by following the rout here pointed out. The roads being excellent,
a great part of its beauties may be enjoyed by a ride, either on the
horse, or in the carriage.
I now returned to the Bath by a rout that will prove too arduous an
undertaking for ladies. Crossing the river here by the boat, I mounted
the heights, keeping along the edge of the
precipice, from which large trees shoot out in a very picturesque
manner. A chink of great depth runs across a field from the face of
the rock, but narrows so much that one may stride over it. As we approach
nearer to the great rock, its appearance becomes wonderfully impressive
: the river at a great depth is seen tumbling in silvery waves along
its rocky channel, followed by the road. Masson, with its wild rocks,
boldly rises on the right, and its massive shade balances the light
of the High Tor, which occupies the left and fore-ground; whilst the
eminences about the Bath and the Cromford Hills fill in the middle
space with considerable interest, forming altogether a very singular,
yet fine view.
Proceeding towards the highest point our progress is interrupted by
a tremendous chasm ; however a little lower down the hill, a part
of it is filled up with rubbish, where it may be crossed. The rock
is rifted in several other places; hut they are narrow chinks that
may be walked over. The miners have also burrowed into the rock in
many places, where they obtain lead ore and calamine. I now approached
the brink to peep over the precipice, when the words of Shakespear
recurred to my mind,
----- How fearful
And dizzy 'tis to cast one's eye so low!
----- I'll look no more,
Lest my brain turn, and the deficient sight
Topple down headlong.
The descent is now very steep, leading through tangled bushes. Coming
to a miners' track, for the sake of novelty I followed its course,
and was led along the base of the perpendicular part of these gigantic
rocks, which is about half way between the summit and the river. Those
scars and fissures that are seen from the road softened by distance,
here become huge and terrific features. This path I traced to a mine
just beyond the great face of the Tor, where lead ore and calamine
are obtained. From hence I returned, and descended to the river, where
I again followed another miner's track, by the brink of the river,
and soon came to the miners' coes or huts, that are seen from the
road : beyond these the path is very rough and stony ; however I pursued
it a considerable way up the river to another mine. The only interest
that arises from this track is in the variety of mineral substances
that are to be met with upon it. The mines yield lead ore and calamine;
and the path is strewed with carbonate of lime, fluate of lime, stalactite,
several varieties of toadstone, limestone, &c. so that the minerologist
might be amused with such a ramble; but here is nothing for the pencil.
I had next to ascend the heights opposite to the Baths, and descend
by the lovers' walks, which terminated this ramble.
Mr. Lipscomb, in his Description of Matlock Bath, says, " Matlock
must be allowed to possess
advantages superior to the generality of watering places. It has gaiety
without dissipation, activity without noise, and facility of communication with other parts of the
country, undisturbed by the bustle of a public road. It is tranquil
without dullness, elegant without pomp, and splendid without extravagance.
In it the man of fashion may at all times find amusement, the man
of rank may meet with society by which he will not be disgraced, and
the philosopher a source of infinite gratification ; while they who
travel in search of health, will here find a silver clue that leads
to her. abode." And we may also add, the artist may likewise
here cull fine studies from nature's richest treasures.
Lunar rainbows may be reckoned among the curiosities of Matlock, as
they have frequently been observed in the neighbourhood. Their colours
are sometimes very distinctly seen, but they have a much lower tone
than those which are produced by the solar rays.
[End of page 46]
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